Art of making shoes



J. A. KELLY ART OF MAKINGSHOES Aug. 31 1926.

Filed Feb 16, 1921 2. Sheets-Sheet i J. A. KELLY ART OF MAKING SHOES Aug, 31 1926.

Filed Feb. 16. 1921 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 upper, and th Patented Aug. 3K, @2 6,

barren arenas PATEEQ? @FFEQEQ ART GE hi iii 1 T Application filed February re, 1921. serial No. eeaaoe.

This invention is a process of making shoes, one object in view being the production of a flexible sole shoe by a procedure characterized by relatively few and simple operations to the end that the flexible sole shoe may be economically produced.

A further object is the production of a wet proof shoe the wet proof material in which is positioned next the outsole so that it does not contact with the wearers foot.

In the art of making shoes of a certain type, generally known as MacKay sewed shoes, the procedure involves the union of an insole and outsole with the upper in? such manner that said soles are so firmly related a to produce no inconsiderable friction between the contacting surfaces, and when the shoe is worn, the bending of the sole results in an undesirable squeaking sound due to the frictional contact. Y

According to this invention, I employ a cut out insole, -i. e., aninsole with an integral shank piece and thefore part of which is removed except at the margin thereof, the

result of which is that the insole is characterized by a marginal stay member um tary with the shank piece.

In one mode of procedure, the out out insole is imposed upon a last and temporarily attached thereto, as by the usual tacks. The upper is now lasted so as to draw the margins of the u per into lapping relation to the margins o the cut out por-. tion and the shank of the insole, suitable temporary tacks being used for holding the e marginal portion of which upper is permanently secured to the marginal cut out portion and tothe shank of said insole by tacks,-sta les or other permanent metallic fasteners w 'ch are clenched against the metal. face of the last. The'upper having become set, the temporary tacks are withdrawn, uponthe upper, after which the outsole i united by stitching said outsole for the seam to pass'through the outsole, the upper and the marginal cut out portion .of the insoler In another form of the invention, the insole with the cut out forepart and the shank as heretofore described is used in connection with a layer of wet proof material, the same being ositioned over the cut out insole and with t e coated face gext t0. the outsole.

of said wet proof layer The insole and the wet and then the outsole is imposed proof layer having been imposed upon the last, the upper is lasted, and the margins of said upper being fastened by temporary lasting tacks an by permanent metallic fasteners, after which the outsole is imposed upon the lasted upper margin and upon the wet proof la er, and then the outsole is stitched fo t e seam to pass through the upper margin the wet proof layer and the marginal portion of the insole.

The shoe produced according to my invention is characterized by an insole the forepart of which is skeletonizedso as to employ a continuous marginal member affording the required material for the attachment of the upper and the outsole, but devoid of any material within the mar 'nal member, as a result of which the inso e at the forepart thereof cannot'have such frictional contact with the outsole as to result iii the undesirable noise when wearing the s cc.

In the drawings':'-

Figure 1 is a plan view of the cut out' insole tacked upon a last. 4

Figure 2 is a plan view of and upper withthe upper lasted and fastened to the insole. I 1 v Figure. 3 is a cross section on the line 3-3 of Figure 2.

Figureja is a cross section showing the outsole stitched to the upper and insole.

Figure 5 is a plan view showing a wetproof layer assembled. in superposed relation to i and illustrating the upper partially last over the wetproof layer.

Figure 6 is a cross 6- 6 of Figure 5, and

Figure 7 is an enlarged cross section with the outsole stitched'to the wet proof layer and'to a portion of the insole.

Incarr g my invention into practice, I first produce an insole A the forepart of which is cut out or skeletonized at a so as to .section V on the line result in a marginal member'B unitary with a shank piece The insole is composed of material suitable for the purpose; such as leather, or in some cases may use a fabric, and said insole is cut by a die or otherwise the last, insole the last, said view being broken away to remove the material from the forepart,

as will be understood.

Said insole is imposed upon an iron faced last D, to which it is temporarily attached in a suitable manner as by lasting tacks d which are driven through appropriate holes in the metal facing of said last.

An upper E is lasted as usual, by drawing it tightly around the last so as to conform thereto and for the marginal portionsof said upper to occupy an overlapping relation to the marginal member B ofthe insole, temporary lasting tacks 6 being used to retain the upper in position. The marginal portion of the lasted upper may be attached to the shank and the marginal member of the insoleby permanent metallic fasteners such as staples, but it is preferred to use tacks the pointed ends of which are clenched against the metal face of the last as seen in Figs. 3 and 4.

The upper having been conformed to the last, the temporary tacks are pulled out, and the upper isnow in condition for the attachment of the outsole F, the same being imposed upon the lasted margin of the upper and to some extent upon the insole, as at the shank thereof. The outsole is stitched to the upper and the insole, the seam g passing through the outsole and the insole at the marginal member B and the shank C of said insole, whereby the skeletonized intacks, being utilized for the sole affords the material for the secure attachment of the upper and. the outsole while at the same time the insole is cut out in the forepart thereof so as to impart the desired flexibility to the shoe and to eliminate that frictional contact between the faces of the insole and the outsole which has been the occasion for the undesirable squeaking noise.

It is desirable in this art to produce a wet roof shoe, and in my invention as shown in igures 5, 6 and 7, this end is secured in a flexible shoe of the MacKay sewed type. In addition to the insole, upper and outsole there is employed a layer of wet proof material G, the same comprising a piece of fabric swith a water resistin coating 72. on one face thereof. Said layer G is of such dimensions and size as to correspond to the insole, and in making the shoe, the cut out insole A and the wetproof layer G are assembled in superposed relation upon the last, to which the two pieces A G are attached by the temorary tacks, as described. The upper is asted to conform to the last and for the r margins of said upper to overlap the wetproof coating of the layer G being next to or in contact with the outsole. Said outsole is stitched to the shoe, the seam passing through the outsole, the wetproof layer, and

the insole, the seam extending along the shlank and the marginal member of said inso e.

Itis preferred to use in connection with the skeletonized part of the insole a continuous layer of material, preferably a layer of wetproof fabric, and to unite said layer of material to the the skeletonized insole, as by cementing the insole and the additional layer one to the other. The association of the fabric with the skeletonized insole performs several functions, among which are the retention of the skeletonized insole in proper position relatively to the last and to the upper during the lasting operation, in creased facility in handling the composite element comprising the insole and fabric, and the preservation of the thin skeletonized material of the insole in a non-wrinkling condition during the operation of lasting the ulpper and in the service and wear of the s 0e.

The marginal member B of the insole is thus adapted to be united throughout its width to the layer of fabric so that the edge portions of the marginal member are retained in a desired relation to the fabric and thus precluded from buckling or warping, the said marginal part of the 'insole being fastened and sewed to the outsole by two lines of permanent fastenings, one of which lines of fasteners is afforded by the row of metallic fasteners f, and the other the line of stitches formed by the seam g. In like manner, the relatively level condition within the shoe, and said 4 layers afford the desired thickness and sta-- bility of materials for the attachment of the upper and for the security of attachment of the outsole, the parts com rising the upper, the insole and the layer 0 material remaining intact when the outsole is ripped off for the purpose of repairs. By the construction described, I am able to produce a MacKay sewed shoe of a flexible nature, and the use of a wetproof layer, as G, affords the added function of a dry shoe to the foot, the same being quite desirable, particularly as the addition of the wetproo fabric is attended by amass r w a Very small increase in the cost of producing the shoe.

Having thus fully described the'invention, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is 1. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in removing from the fore part of an insole all the material to produce an opening bounded by a narrow marginal member which is unitary with the insole shank, assembling a thin continuous layer of wet proof material into contact' with said insole and across the opening therein and into lapping relation to the marginal member, adhesively attaching the wet proof layer to the marginal member of the insole: and

- thus uniting the insole and the Wet proof proof layer of layer to produce a composite flexible member, imposing the composite member on a last, lasting an upper and attaching the same to the composlte member, imposing an outsole on the lasted margin of the upper, and

attaching the outsole to the upper and the composite member.

2. In the art of making shoes, the process -which consists in producing an insole provided with a shank, the forepart of said 1nsole removed to result in a marginal member .only unitary with said shank, assembling a layer of wetproof material in superposed relation to the cut out insole, imposing the assembled insole and said wetproof layer upon a last, lasting an upper and temporarily fastening the same to the insole and to the Wetproof layer by temporary lasting tacks, securing the upper to the insole and the wetlic fasteners which are clenched against the last, removing the temporary lasting tacks,

imposing an outsole upon the lasted margins of the upper and the wetproof layer, and

- stitching the outsole for the seam to unite said outsole to the wetproof layer and the insole independently of the permanent attachment of said insole and wetproof layer material by permanent metalskeletonized insole in vmargins thereof to the insole and the fiexible material, fastening the insole and layer of material permanently to the marginal portion of the upper by a row of permanent metallic fasteners, and stitching an outsole to the upper, the insole and said layer of material,

4. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in removing a portion of the forepart of an insole so as to produce a marginal member onl unitary with a shank, assembling the resu ting skeletonized insole in superposed relation to a continuous layer of flexible material, uniting the insole at the skeletonized portion thereof to said continuous layer of material, imposing the assembled andunited insole and layer upon a last, lasting an upper and temporarily fastening the margin thereof to said insole and flexible layer, fastening the marginal portion of the upper permanently to the insole and the added layer by a row-of permanent metallic fasteners, andstitchin an outsole and the upper to the insole an the added layer, whereby the outsole is permanently united to the upper, insole and added layer by one row of permanent fastenings and the insole and upper are permanently united to theadded eners.

In testimony signed my name 1921. I

V whereof I have hereto this 7 th'day of February,

JOHN A. KELLY. 

